Noto came into the global spotlight after the powerful earthquake on January 1, 2024. Surrounded by the Japan Sea on three sides, the peninsula faces a challenging climate with frequent rainfall. Yet the region’s recovery has been marked by remarkable perseverance. Love and support have poured in from across Japan and beyond, and the spirit of Noto continues to shine through its vibrant festivals and unwavering community strength.
Taking place at Kumakabuto Arakashihiko Shrine in Nanao City on September 20th each year, the Okuma Kabuto Matsuri is an Intangible Folk Cultural Property. The festival, participated by 19 local shrines, is held to give thanks for the year’s harvest. Around 1,500 people volunteer their time and strength to form the spectacular procession. And at the center of it, are the tall crimson flags: Wakubata.
The eve of preparations
This was my first time being invited behind the scenes to see how a festival of this scale comes together. On the eve of the event, representatives from each of the 19 shrines gather at Kumakabuto Arakashihiko Shrine to make offerings and receive the deity’s spirit, which they bring home to be enshrined with prayers for a successful festival. Many of these families have supported the celebration for generations. The family we visited were long-time participants, with several members performing as Sarutahiko: the red-faced, long-nosed deity who leads and clears the path for the procession.
What happens during the festival?
At dawn, the flags arrive on boats on the shore of Nakajima town. It makes its way 1-hour inland on foot to the shrine. For the entire morning, all 19 shrines and their processions make their way into the shrine. It’s accompanied by this incredibly lively atmosphere, with sounds of drums and hand gongs and people singing and chanting. In the front of each procession, you’ll see the deity Sarutahiko dancing and clearing the way. The red-faced masks they wear date back hundreds of years. Once the procession makes their way to the shrine, the 20-meter-tall crimson flag and mikoshi (portable shrines) take turn running towards the head shrine for blessings.
Around the shrine, the lively atmosphere is made up of the procession attendees, spectators, and the vendors selling food and drinks at the shrine. Kids are running around in festival wear, and lunch and alcohol offered to participants.
Shimada Kuzushi: the flag-tilting climax
In the afternoon around 2pm onwards, all 19 groups of the procession make their way to a nearby field called Kamohara (賀茂原) for the dramatic finale. As the Wakubata flags make their entry to the field, they make a stop and are tilted 90 degrees towards the ground. It takes incredible manpower to balance the 2-ton flag, so it doesn’t topple onto the ground, and to then pull it back upright. It’s a symbol of power and the community might, which wouldn’t be possible without everyone coming together.
What makes this festival special
Like many festivals in Japan, the Okuma Kabuto Matsuri dazzles the senses with its color, rhythm, and boundless energy. Yet what truly makes it special goes far beyond the spectacle.
For the first time this year, foreign residents were invited to take part—and the welcome was nothing short of heartwarming. Locals greeted everyone with open arms, eager to share not only their traditions but genuine moments of laughter and connection. Conversations flowed easily, filled with curiosity and mutual appreciation, reminding everyone that joy and community transcend language.
Perhaps it’s the close-knit nature of this community, surrounded by the calm beauty of Noto’s landscape and free from the rush of city life, that gives the festival its rare authenticity and warmth.
Challenges ahead, and how we can help & contribute
Following the Noto earthquake, there’s a significant fall in population (10%) in the region as those under-40 leave to seek employment elsewhere. Though rebuilding efforts haven’t stopped, Noto is facing an aging population and being forgotten as a tourist destination. Preserving this intangible culture will become more and more difficult.
What the people of Noto want you to know is: they welcome you. There are still hotels operating, such as the ones I stayed at: Hotel Route-Inn Nanao Ekihigashi, and Wakura Onsen’s Hamazuru (能登の宿 和倉温泉はまづる).
Either by visiting during the Okumakabuto Matsuri on September 20th, or spreading the world that visitors are welcomed will help breathe life back into Noto.
What else can you see in Noto?
Wakura Onsen Festival Hall 和倉温泉お祭り会館
This immersive museam brings you into the world of the 4 big festivals of Noto. You can see life-size floats to feel the impact of these traditions as well as try on festival clothing. It’s a great starting point to understand what happens in this region.
Nakajima Festival Hall 中島お祭り会館
Home to the impressive floats of the Seihakusai and Okuma Kabuto Matsuri, this hall lets visitors get up close to the craftsmanship, history, and passion behind Noto’s traditional festivals that have been celebrated for centuries.
Hanayome Noren Museum 花嫁のれん館 (Bridal Curtain museum)
Step into the world of Ishikawa’s wedding traditions, where ornate “bride’s curtains” hand-painted with symbols of love and prosperity tell stories passed down through generations. Visitors can even experience dressing up in traditional Japanese bridal wear for an extra fee.
<North coast>
Shiroyone Senmaida Rice Terraces白米千枚田
Here you can see a breathtaking landscape of over a thousand rice paddies cascading down toward the sea. These UNESCO-listed terraces glow with golden hues in summer and thousands of LED lights are installed in winter for a special festival.
<East coast>
Mitsuke Island見附島 “Battleship Island”
This striking rock formation rising from the sea near Suzu looks like a battleship anchored off the coast. A short sand path lets visitors approach it at low tide, making it a romantic photo spot especially at sunrise or sunset.
Koiji Beach恋路海岸
Named “Love Road,” this tranquil beach is wrapped in legend, said to be the place where star-crossed lovers once reunited. Today, couples visit to walk the scenic shore to enjoy the serene view.
Boramachi Yagura/Flathead Mullet Watchtower日本最古の漁法「ボラ待ちやぐら」
This is a living remnant of Japan’s oldest fishing method, these wooden watchtowers once allowed fishermen to spot schools of flathead mullet in the shallows. A few still stand today along the Noto coast, offering a rare glimpse into centuries-old coastal life.
The Okuma Kabuto Matsuri is far more than just a visual spectacle of towering flags. It is a living tradition that beats with the heart of community. In this quiet corner of Noto, far from Japan’s crowded tourist routes, you can feel the region’s enduring spirit in the enthusiasm of the locals.
Next time you find yourself exploring Japan, look beyond the famous landmarks and step into a festival like this one. You’ll discover that the richest traditions, and the most genuine warmth, often live where few travelers go. So when you plan your next visit, let Noto, with its deep-rooted resilience and heartfelt hospitality, be the place that reminds you what community truly means.
If you'd like to learn more about the festival, you can visit the official website here: https://okumakabuto-matsuri.com/
Access:
By plane: 1hr from Haneda to Noto-Satoyama Airport (Please book a taxi latest by the 3pm on the prior day as taxis only operate on reservation basis. Rental cars are available at the airport)
By train: 1hr limited express train from Kanazawa Station to Nanao Station.
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